Chapter 12
Miles [1154-1375]
Since last I wrote an update on this blog I have walked a lot and thought a little. I crossed the half way point of the trail, I crossed the Dixie fire burn scar, I defended my food from a bear, I hiked through a semi-active volcano, and I was briefly adopted by a family on vacation.
The trail has not been as pretty, it has been hot, dry, dusty, and absolutely overrun by thorn bushes.
—But as they say in little league football…. “No pain, no gain”
Day 63 [1154.5-1170.5]
When last we spoke I had set off from Donner Ski Ranch with a makeshift knee sleeve and dreams of making good mileage before sunset. My magic sock worked for my knee, and I made it 16 miles for a beautiful sunset—both dreams realized 🥰.
Day 64 [1170.5-1204.1]
There was a cost to this beautiful site…neighbors. There was a family of mice beneath the rock beside me and I had to periodically wack them away with my trekking pole throughout the night. This kept me up late and so I overslept the next morning.
In the evening I still had to hike further, and farther than I expected. This meant I had to hike 2 hours or so in the dark. In the fading light of dusk I passed within inches of 3 different rattlesnakes on a ridge. Naturally, in getting hissed at, I tend to jump back in fear—in this case with thousand foot ravine behind me, my natural reaction was more dangerous than even the snakes. By the end I was the one who was rattled (snake pun but I was actually shaken).
Then after getting past the cliff face, the trail entered deep into the dark of the woods. At this point my nerves were completely shot, and so when a deer and I startled each other, I stumbled in fright and fell to the ground yelling in terror. At this point I thought I was losing it.
When I finally arrived at the stream, I fell in the mud… by the end of this day I was more angry/depressed/scared/tired/lonely than ever. —Brutal
Day 65 [1204-1236.8]
Of my actions today I cannot remember a lot, I recall of the trail being long, slow and so hot, now instead of my actions I’ll give you my thought.
Externalizing negativity is extremely powerful-fight against an enemy and not yourself. Instead of thinking about temptations and weakness as yourself, think of them as demons dragging you down. This solidifies a real you as the one who fights against the evil and the weakness. ie: I might think Treebeard is the one who will not quit, HE is fighting against the rattlesnakes, demons, and fatigue which are dragging him down.
Saying the St. Michael prayer works for a reason, our conception requires an enemy. Treating sin and weakness as a diabolical enemy rather than an internal feature works better than introspective “therapeutic” action in many cases. This is why Religious Conversion is the only proven thing that can end addiction (if you don’t believe me then read the 12 steps in AA).
You may get where this is going—on days like this the trail stops being a hard thing I do and starts being a war I am waging. Fighting yourself is…self-destructive
(And look at the mossy trees)
Day 66 [1236.8-1267]
Last night I continually heard a grunting and footsteps heavy enough to break big sticks…steps big enough only for a bear or a person. Either would be terrifying. So every 20 minutes or so I would get up and yell at the shadow and throw rocks at it until I heard it run away. At one point it got close enough for me to see it, but my aim was true and I nailed it with a big enough rock that it didn’t return.
Today was another long day as I made my way towards Buck’s lake. When I finally made it there it seemed like things were closing and I might not even be able to get food or a place to stay. As I was walking a man pulled over and tells me to get in the trunk of his car and said he would take me to his lakehouse.
-Without questioning I obeyed
He had been out fishing with his two young sons on the lake and told me that he loved to help hikers to show his boys how to be kind (inspiring). When we get to his house his wife says he can’t do any more driving that day and so I get to spend the night!!!
I used some of their boat soap and bathed in the lake and swam off their dock, then they gave me leftover meatballs, tacos, and cookies!!
I talked to the kids about sports and school and wakeboarding and quickly won them over. The dad fed me beers (and offered much more than that) and then we all sat around the campfire. I told the kids exaggerated stories from the trail and we sat there for hours. I told them I was a 6x state champion s’mores roaster and then demonstrated this ability to earn my lodging, much to the delight of the kids.
After the kids went to bed the dad kept me out by the fire to drink with me until early in the morning. It was so crazy to me that I was completely the peer of this adult and not of his kids. It was also crazy that some men can be such great dads and such seeming degenerates—this gives me hope for many of my college peers.
Day 67 [1267-1288.5]
I woke up in the boathouse where they had let me set up my sleeping bag (I may be treated like family and I may be pen pals with the kids now but I am still filthy hikertrash 😢
I made it to Belden by nightfall, which is an old Gold-rush town turned trailer park (there are lots around here). Here I was able to do laundry and get a beer which was nice.
Day 68 [1288-1313.4]
Today had a 14 mile stretch of straight uphill, it was also the worst maintained trail I have ever been on. Because of the fire, there were sometimes upwards of a hundred downed trees to cross per mile. Furthermore, the paths were completely overgrown by sharp thorn bushes. This had the triple effect of
1. Causing you to scrape all the skin off your shins.
2. Casing you to lose the trail and have to wander to find it.
3. Blocking your view of your feet causing you to stub your toes on rocks constantly
-This was a new height of misery…
Then I met “Loudmouth” who is hiking the entire trail without saying a word, and who carries a notebook to communicate.
I met and hiked with a funny lesbian couple. And then I camped with a husband and wife who rotate slack packing each other up the trail each year—and they gave me extra food in exchange for one of my bratwursts. The husband is a retired entrepreneur from Minnesota, the wife is a German who loves Bojangles. We talked about what makes a redneck, and why they thought the big cities screw them over.
Then as I was going to bed, the wife offered me a blankee to sleep with for the night, which I won’t even lie…was a great gift.
No matter how bad the days are, a good sunset fixes everything…
Day 69 [1313-1346]
Today I crossed the halfway point, and it felt like a let down. “I can’t believe I’m only halfway there…”
But as I was sitting there a butterfly landed on my hand, perhaps that’s a good omen?
I ended today by approaching Lassen Volcanic National park. I took a bath in the river while I cooked dinner and then hiked until it got too spooky dark. There was a howling/baying sound in the distance and I was swarmed by moths.
Day 70 [1346-1375]
I woke up early to hike to the geysers. I spent too long trying to come up with a “Are you gay sir?” “yes I’m a guy, sure” Geyser joke. As you can see I am bored and yet still unsuccessful comedically.
After passing the geysers I stopped at Drakesbad Guest ranch where I paid to have all you can eat breakfast. I had 4 plates, the food was mediocre, but quantity has a quality of its own as they say.
I powered on through the night until I made it to the campground at Old Station where I was allowed to have a free shower (but no towel or soap). [[Like a hobo, paper towels and hand soap did the trick]]
I ate dinner with my friend Jared the 45 year old engineer from San Diego and we talked for a record high 10 minutes (he’s quiet).
I am very tired and these kids keep yelling as they ride around on their bikes, but they're actually making me happy and I don’t mind.
Day 71 [1375
I am writing to you from a picnic table at the old station campground while I wait for the post office to open. I hope to get in at least 24 miles by tonight.
Thanks for reading
-Your very tired ent Treebeard